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Color on Metal – Out of the grey and into the blue.

MANY artists use liver of sulphur (LOS) to create a black or grey patina on sterling. But that is not the ONLY color range that LOS offers!

With a little tweaking of the solution, you can achieve variations from reddish brown to blues and purples.

By varying the concentration of the LOS mixture and also the temperature of the mixture, one can get reddish colors – brown, and also blue to purple and adding other components to the mix achieves even brighter blues and purples.

LOS comes in chunk, liquid, and even gel form now. The following observations have been made using chunk form mixed with warm water to dissolve.

Dark grey or black – a strong mixture of LOS in relation to water is used. If the mixture is hot, the patina process will go MUCH faster, creating a deep black very quickly. (be careful, sometimes this can apply such a thick layer that it will flake off) When desired color is achieved, rinse metal in cold water to interrupt the patination process.

Reds and browns – a weaker mixture of LOS/water is used. AND a more ambient temperature solution. Dip metal quickly and don’t rinse. Wait and watch colors develop. Keep dipping and watching the process.When desired color is achieved, rinse metal in cold water to interrupt the patination process.

Blues and purples – a weak mixture of LOS and water. . . or day old mixture may be used. Add industrial strength ammonia to the mixture. (this is ‘professional’ grade cleaning ammonia, ensure proper ventilation when using) Heat metal. (can be done by running under VERY hot water). Dip quickly or paint patina onto metal. Watch CLOSELY as color develops. The metal will go through stages of color. Repeat the heating and painting process until the desired colors are achieved, rinse metal in cold water to interrupt the patination process.

Here is a picture of a sterling piece done in this manner:

Red, blue, green, maybe purple can be seen, and it has an irridescent quality to it.

Here is the reverse side with no flash on camera:

Patinas are not always stable. They can change over time. For this reason, a sealant is often used. Either wax of some sort – Renaissance Wax is a favorite among many; or a fixative spray (Nikolas lacquer has been highly recommended) to preserve color but note that anything placed over a patina will change the effect to some degree as it changes the way light plays over the surface of the metal.

Below you can see the same piece after about 7 mos in a drawer, in no protective wrapping and NO sealant having been applied. Unfortunately the photo itself is pretty poor, there is a lot of glare, however the blues/greens/reds are still visible in various places

and the back ‘after’ picture:

This pendant was colored using day old LOS soultion that had faded to a weak yellow/straw color.

Straight ammonia was added to the LOS solution. There is no need to be specific with ratios, one of the joys of patinas is in experimentation.

The room temperature mixture was ‘painted’ on with a papertowel very lightly, wiping dry, then applying more,then wiping dry until the desired colors were achieved.

The nice thing is if you go too far you can take it off and start again.

One tip – KEEP a notebook for patinas handy on your bench. Record your process including:

  • patina ingredients and amounts
  • meta used
  • temperature of solution
  • temperature of metal
  • method of applying (dunked, painted, misted, etc)
  • time left on
  • rinsing in between applications (if any)
  • repetition of process (if any)

General instructions for LOS in chunk form:

Use a heat tolerated container. Add a quarter cup of hot water. Add one small chunk (a little less than the size of a pea). Wait for it to dissolve. Swirl container to mix.

The LOS is ready to use. Mixed LOS solutions are not very stable. They will degrade over time and usually are not saved. however, for some of the color variations noted above, retaining your mixed LOS can serve a purpose!  LOS will weaken overnight, losing its color (turning more clear) and eventually have a skim or flakes on the surface. When the LOS solution gets to that point – it’s dead. ..inactive, and can be poured down the drain (from what we’ve read). If your solution is still yellow, it is ‘active’ and should be disposed of according to your local requirements.

More on patinas coming soon!

See more Tips & Tricks
Free Jewelry Making Tutorial - Dual Balled Ring

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Please note that melting points vary from resource to resource – This chart has been comprised using numerous sources and cross confirmations.

Metals Melting Temperatures

Metal Melting Point Celsius Melting Point Fahrenheit
Aluminum 659 1218
Brass (85 Cu 15 Zn) 900-940 1652-1724
Bronze (90 Cu 10 Sn) 850-1000 1562-832
Cast Iron 1260 2300
Copper 1083 1981
Gold (24k) 1063 1946
Iron 1530 2786
Lead 327 621
Nickel 1452 2646
Palladium 1555 2831
Platinum 1770 3220
Red Brass 990 – 1025 1810 – 1880
Silver (pure) 961 1762
Silver (sterling) 893 1640
Stainless Steel 1363 2550
Steel-High Carbon 1353 2500
Medium Carbon 1427 2600
Low Carbon 1464 2700
Tin 232 450
Titanium 1795 3263
Yellow Brass 905 – 932 1660 – 1710
Zinc 419 786


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The new Inspiration page is now live!

http://www.jewelryartistsnetwork.com/index/inspiration/

Feel free to suggest an artist or piece by using the contact tab above.

hope you enjoy the work presented. :)

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chances are I’ll want a sock to go with it.

No, seriously. There is a great use for your lone socks, you know, the ones that come out of the wash without a mate. Don’t throw them away, use them as ‘hats’ for your hammers!

I snapped this picture of my hammer drawer, the place where my ‘good’ hammers live. metalsmithing, raising, forming hammers, jewelry artists network

True, these aren’t socks, but they used to be, and some do still have socks, I just didn’t et a picture of those. These are golf club covers and some might be shoe covers.

Anyway, the real message here is that there are probably things in your home right now that could be residing on the heads of your hammers. Look around and then cover your hammers! It helps prevent rust and any possible scratches on the highly polished heads.

:)

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One thing that we all deal with is scrap. Whether its botched work, or filings, or those little wire snips and bits; we can accumulate a lot of ‘scrap’ metal.

Some people use their scrap for sand, broomstraw, water, or other casting at home. A bit of the scrap metal can often be used as embellishments on new pieces of jewelry, but at some point, most of us will end up with a bag, box, or even bucket full of metal.

What do you do with it?

One consideration is to send it in to a refiner and have them either give you ‘cash back’ (a check) or a credit on a subsequent purchase of metal, tools.

How do return programs work?

Basically you are going to package your scrap and send it to a refiner and they are going to either give you cash back – or a credit on future purchases.

You will need to separate your scrap. Remove any stones, organize it by metal type, and in some instances, remove any soldered parts. Each refinery has their specific instructions, read carefully or call to find out how best to ‘clean’ and package your scrap.

Then you send it in, usually with a form specific to their company, but sometimes with a note. They will log, weigh, assay, weigh, check current spot/market prices, and then do some math to calculate your return.

Who has the best prices?

That seems to be the million dollar question.

Return prices vary from company to company and then each one usually has different prices within their own system which are determined by the amount you send in, whether you want cash or trade, and how quickly you want it turned around (rush or standard?).

In addition, some companies have refining fees, surcharges, etc that will affect your return. It is in your best interest to ask before hand about any and all charges/fees.

To help get you started, we have researched a few companies and have created a list of their current scrap return/refining rates.

These are listed alphabetically and do not necessarily include the surcharges or refining fees. If you have another company to recommend or someone you want us to check out, please use the contact tab above to let us know!

  • G&S Metals

http://www.gsgold.com

  • Silver Scrap buy – 90% – credit acct. 90%
  • Silver/Bars/Coins – 95%
  • Gold Bars/Coins – 95%
  • Platinum and Pd – 90%
  • Argentium Silver – 90%

  • Hausser and Miller

http://www.hauserandmiller.com/

< 150 oz 81%

> 150 oz 98%

  • High Tech PMR

http://www.hitechpmr.com/

gold – 98%

silver – 92%

platinum – 92%

you need their patriot act form to open an account

and they have a shipping form that is downloadable on their website

you can send both at the same time with your first shipment and then just the packing slip for future shipments.

  • Hoover & Strong

http://www.hooverandstrong.com/
will accept mixed material, however, separating scrap is recommended.

NOTE: there are refining fees of anywhere from $1.00 to $1.25 an ounce.

Silver:

> 90% fine silver  65 – 85% depending on weight and return time requested

<90% pure silver 65-70% depending on return time requested

Gold:

> 25 % fine gold  94-98% depending on quantity and return time requested

10-24% fine gold 94-95%

<10% 89-90%

Platinum or palladium

> 90% 89-96% depending on weight and return time requested

  • Midwest Refineries

http://midwestrefineries.com/

sterling scrap  90% of pure sterling assay

  • Monsterslayer

http://www.monsterslayer.com/

Sterling/Fine Silver Sheet, Wire & Precious Metals Clay (PMC) Scrap:
75 % of the current Silver Market in Trade or

we will pay 60 % of the current Silver Market in Cash.

Soldered, Brazed, or Melted Silver Scrap, Clean Filings, Chains, and Old Jewelry with quality marking:
55 % of the current Silver Market in Trade or

we will pay 45 % of the current Silver Market in Cash.

12k-14k Gold Filled Findings, Sheet, & Wire Scrap:
1.2 % of the current Gold Market in Trade or

we will pay 1.0 % of the current Gold Market in Cash.

Example: 1.2 % of a $ 1,000.00 Gold Market = $ 12.00 per OzT.

  • Rio

http://www.riogrande.com/

Credit

Fine silver and cadmium-free sterling silver*75%

Cadmium-bearing sterling silver (requires special refining) 65%

Silver dust 40%

Minted fine silver coins and bars from Rio Grande 98%

Minted fine silver coins and bars not sold by Rio Grande 92%

Gold-filled ( at least 12/20 ) 1.89% total weight

24K gold ( Jeweler’s karat gold scrap )**  75%

Minted 24KY gold coins from Rio Grande 98%

Minted 24KY gold coins not sold by Rio Grande 92%

Platinum*** 60%

Palladium**** 60%

Check

Fine silver and cadmium-free sterling silver*65%

Cadmium-bearing sterling silver (requires special refining) 65%

Silver dust 40%

Minted fine silver coins and bars from Rio Grande 98%

Minted fine silver coins and bars not sold by Rio Grande 92%

Gold-filled ( at least 12/20 ) 1.89% total weight

24K gold ( Jeweler’s karat gold scrap )**  65%

Minted 24KY gold coins from Rio Grande 98%

Minted 24KY gold coins not sold by Rio Grande 92%

Platinum*** 60%

Palladium****  60%

  • Thunderbird Supply

http://www.thunderbirdsupply.com/

unsoldered silver

80% of the for trade or

60% for unsoldered silver for cash

scrap jewelry or soldered pieces:

60% for trade

fine silver coins and bars

90% for trade or

85% for cash.

For gold-filled scrap
cash or trade 1.45%
[$900 gold market, ($900 x 0.0145 = $13.05) gold-filled scrap would be worth $13.05 per ounce.]

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CANADA

Handy & Harman Precious Metals Group

http://www.handyharmancanada.com/

800.463.1465to speak with a Scrap Recovery Specialist

[note, I called and could not get through – press 3 for refining dept. then 1 if you are a new customer. The extension went into voice mail which said not to leave a message but to try another number which is – 416-419-3114 – I didn’t call because I’m not local! ]

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UK

Cookson Gold

http://www.cooksongold.com/

Has a scrap metal chart similar to a live market chart – updated frequently but may not be accurate…

http://www.cooksongold.com/metalprices/

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